“I have a strong desire to go away,
to somewhere where I’ll be alone. It doesn’t have to be for a long time, just a
few hours perhaps. Away from any distractions, no pressing requirements, maybe
to a lake or a hilltop where I can watch the world revolve.
I know
that if I do this, I won’t be satisfied. I’ll be bored and the time will drag.
If I bring paper and pens, nothing will get written. Mostly, I’ll just feel
sorry for myself. It has happened before.
Photo
trips, backpacking or camping, I’ll wonder why I’m there. What was my need to
come? The answer I was looking for won’t be there.
I know
I should ignore this desire, remove it from my thoughts!
Instead
it gains importance, it requires fulfillment. I should know better but instead
I start mentally scanning my maps, thinking about where, where would the
perfect place be…”
It got
the best of me, I couldn’t resist. The next day, I took a mental relaxation day
from work and after lunch (and a few chores around the house) I got in the car
and headed north. My idea was to go and see some countryside, drive through
some farmland, find a place to stop and relax and enjoy the scenery.
On the drive I got
tangled up in the commercialism of the North Hills. Store after store, fast
food joints and car dealer after car dealer. Then there are the doctors and
their offices. They all became a blur, I had to get away. This isn't what I wanted!
By the
time I got to Wexford, I was ready to pull what little hair I have, out! I
didn’t want to do it but I jumped on RT79 and increased my speed, leaving all
this clutter behind. In another 15 minutes
I was in Portersville and driving past farms and fields.
A lot
of this area was strip mined and is now nicely reforested. The trees are still
young but the land is looking much better than it did in the 70’s. I can
remember driving up to Moraine State Park and looking at the manmade hills
along RT79, so obvious in those days. You can still see the hand of man on the
hills and valleys, but it looks rather nice now days.
My
first stop was at a lookout called Cleland Rock, a rarely visited part of
McConnells Mill State Park. It overlooks the valley that Slippery Rock Creek
flows. Two large Turkey Vultures met me when I pulled up, they were gracious
enough to fly away and leave me alone with the view. Perhaps in the fall or the
winter I might have been able to see the stream but today the trees hid it
nicely. I sat for a while and wrote a
little bit before leaving to go further north. I had gotten an idea.
A year
or so ago on a nice snowy day, Ann Marie and I had attempted to visit an old
stone blast furnace. Called the Wilroy Furnace, it is situated just below a
campground. We had stopped at the office to inquire if we could go down and
photograph the furnace. The lady we talked to was elderly and seemed very
protective of the site. She told us that it would be too dangerous to go to it
when there was snow and ice on the ground. “Perhaps some other time.”
The campground now looked deserted. The grass was well over a foot high. The
office windows were dirty and the patio had leaves and dirt blown into its
corners. I walked around the office, looking up at the upstairs windows but I
saw nothing. There was no car to be seen. The pool was filled with greenish
water and weeds climbed up the fence. The place looked abandoned.
I
followed a slight path through the overgrown grass that led down the hill. Large
branches from the trees lay in the grass. At the bottom of the slope was a wide flat
area. Some rusted picnic tables were scattered around, the wood on them was
broken and laying half off their supports. The wood was covered with leaves and
had mold and moss growing on it.
The
hillside dropped off dramatically behind the tables and there below them was
the furnace. Looking like a pyramid or
an ancient temple it sat at the bottom of the hill. Long grass and a few
saplings were growing out of the cracks. It has 3 setbacks, each about 10-12
inches wide. There were no fallen
stones, the three arches were in pristine shape. A pond of stagnant water was
situated in front of the furnace, possibly a result of flooding from the
stream. The stream could be seen 30-40 yards away.
At one
time, when it was in operation a bridge would have been built from where the
picnic tables were over to the top of the furnace. This bridge, called a
charging bridge, was used to fuel the furnace and to add the ingredients used
to make the iron. The molten iron was removed from the furnace through one of
the arches at the bottom. It would flow out through paths cut in the dirt and
allowed to cool into ingots, called pigs. These would then be shipped to other
places which would re-form them into usable products.
Someone
had been doing some pruning in the past couple months. Several trees had been
cut down and there were a few piles of brush around the front of the furnace.
It was almost as if the furnace had been put on display. I took some shots from
various spots around the furnace and then left.
I drove
over to the opposite side of the stream. There are a lot of paths that
fishermen use on this side. I came to a
spot where the furnace could be seen easily. The last time I had been here, I
could just barely see it through the trees and weeds.
I can’t
help but wonder who owns it now. It is on the National Register of Historical
Places. I wonder if it is on the campground property. I saw a couple stakes
with pink ribbons on them, maybe it’s being sold or maybe it is being taken
over by the state. I can only hope that it will continue to be protected. There
is no graffiti on it except for a couple chiseled names, from the 1800’s!
According
to Myron Sharp and William Thomas who wrote a book titled “A Guide to the Old
Stone Blast Furnaces in Western Pennsylvania” , the furnace was built around
1854 and went out of blast before 1877. So,
approximately 20 years of service, not bad.
Most furnaces went out of blast because of a lack of iron ore or trees.
The trees were used to fuel the furnaces and once they were gone, that spelled
the end of the furnace. The town surrounding it usually disappeared soon after,
leaving only the stone furnaces and maybe some walls or channels to give any
evidence that a community once thrived there.
Happy
with the experience of visiting the furnace site, I pointed my car south and
started back towards home. I was thinking about the furnace as I drove along
RT19, past farms and meadows. Many of these fields were the product of the strip
mining that used to be here. They have changed a lot since the 70’s when I
first started coming up here. A lot has
changed as the years go by. I see it every time I go on a trip. I’ll pass an
old farm and maybe stop and take a picture of the barn, the ivy growing out of
the top of the silo, and think what a nice photogenic scene it is. The next
time I go by, a neighborhood of cookie cutter homes has risen in its place.
I saw
it again on this very trip. Coming into Evans City, (I left RT19 in Zelienople
to avoid the commercialism ahead) I saw a farm I had always wanted to visit. A
bulldozer sat on top of what was left of the barn and the house had all the
windows boarded up. Soon it will be a cleared spot of land, probably with a for
sale sign posted beside the road.
Another cookie cutter community with some sort of cute name will have
taken its place.
On my
drive I passed ten or twenty new neighborhoods, the signs usually from the same
developing company. I drove past a field that had been remolded by bulldozers, fresh
asphalt roads were being laid across it. The land is just waiting for the
throng of carpenters to descend on it to bring another instant neighborhood to
life. I know people need a place to live but I hate to see the farms of
Pennsylvania disappear because of it. According to an article in Time Magazine,
the nation has lost 12,000 farms in the year between 2017 and 2018. Sadly there
is more profit in the land than the products the farm grows. Like the iron
furnaces, the farms are slowly disappearing also.
Returning
home, I felt refreshed. The Mental Health Day had helped. I got lots of fresh
air, looked out over some nice wooded hills, walked through a cool stream and
took some nice pictures of old, forgotten industry. Yeah, I did a little bit of
bitchin’ and moanin’ on the way but really, it helped. I’m refreshed and ready
for whatever the world wants to throw at me next!