Altoona and Back

 A friend, Byron Smail recently released a new book that he wrote (Blair County Iron) and was going to give a talk about it. Ann Marie and I were going to go and also spend a little time roaming around the area. His talk was taking place at the Altoona Railroaders Memorial Museum, being a railroad fanatic; I wasn’t going to miss that! We had been to another of Byron’s talks when he had printed his first book and we enjoyed his talk immensely. We were looking forward to both the talk and the trip!

    As is always the case, when we are going somewhere, I look for a few things to do on our trip, a couple little things which might make the ride a bit more enjoyable.

    Of course, there were a couple geocaches on our route. Since we were going to hear a talk about iron furnaces, I also added 3 furnaces that we hadn’t visited yet to our itinerary. We also would stop at a couple quilt shops and a new to us, restaurant. Then, there were the sites we would just run across, we never know what we will find!

    Our start was a little after sunrise, hoping to avoid some of the heat of the day. We ended up in Gallitzin around 9. There was a cache that we hadn’t found a few weeks ago and we were going to try to find it again. Unfortunately, after 15-20 minutes of searching around, we couldn’t locate it. We weren’t too concerned, it is only a game, chances are, we will be back.

    About a mile or two away, just below the railroad tracks coming out of Altoona, there used to be a furnace. The town of Bennington sat here, now all that remains are a couple foundations and a cemetery. My hopes were to find the stack from the furnace. I had only a rough idea of its location; it was below the tracks and above a large slag pile. A couple friends had been there but we hadn’t…yet.

    We drove along a dirt road, searching for where a path/road might have once been, leading down to the site.  We passed a long line of coke ovens; we counted over 40 of them. Hundreds used to be here. The fronts are all broken. I’ve heard that the owners would take the doors and fronts off of them after they were no longer used to avoid taxation.

    We got out of the car and walked back and forth searching for a possible route down to the furnace. At one spot, the slope was extremely steep and almost all of the edges were covered in thick, high Bind weed. Driving back I found what I believed was the trail, I stopped the car and went down over the hill. Fighting through high weeds and jagger bushes I went down a couple hundred yards. AMB stayed in the car and not wanting to continue on by myself and possibly get hurt, I returned to the car. I marked the spot with my GPS, I WILL be back to explore further!

We meandered around the Hollidaysburg area, checking out a couple quilt shops, a roadside veggie stand and then stopped for lunch at a Pennsylvania Dutch style restaurant. A little further down the road we came into the town of Woodbury. The Elizabeth Iron Furnace used to sit here. Peter Shoenberger had a furnace built here in 1827. It operated through 1843 and then it was dismantled and moved. We looked at the field where it once stood but didn’t bother going over to explore. There are no ruins there.

The furnace was moved to Bloomfield Township where it became the Bloomfield Furnace. After operating for a few years, it was once again dismantled and moved to Rodman where it became the Middle Martha Furnace.

    I stopped in a small business and asked if they knew anything about the furnace. Bryan, the owner didn’t know anything about it but he did give me some directions to a near-by limestone kiln. We drove over and stopped to take some pictures.

    Limestone kilns were used to burn limestone to produce lime which was spread on fields to help improve crop yields. They were operated much the same as iron furnaces. Limestone and charcoal, or a similar heat source was loaded from the top and the finished product sunk to the bottom where it was taken out. These kilns can be found all over the state.

    After looking around the kiln and photographing it, we drove to the outskirts of Bellwood, a bit north of Altoona. There we searched for a set of ruins, another Elizabeth Furnace. The first one we looked for was in Bedford County, this one was in Blair. Once again, I only had an idea of where they might be located. I tried coming in from one side of Sandy Run Creek but saw nothing, the land was too flat. The furnace had to be on the opposite side of the stream, up against the hillside.

    We drove across a near-by bridge and tried again. Ann Marie decided to hang out in the car while I searched. My “search” took me through thick weeds and across hundreds of fallen trees. I walked through mud bogs and had mosquitoes feeding off me. I tried my best to avoid the poison ivy. I had shorts on, not the best clothing for bushwhacking and my legs were bleeding from scratches. I followed the stream and didn’t see anything and eventually backtracked. I found a small deer trail and followed it in closer to the hillside and then... all of a sudden, it appeared in front of me. Like a vision it became apparent to me, I could discern between the trees and leaves and the rock ruins behind them.

    The furnace had partially collapsed though one corner was still standing sharp and straight. I didn’t see any openings; they had been covered when the sides collapsed. Older pictures show that there were 3 openings. I climbed up the hillside to the top where I could see the chimney. Looking in, I could see the bricks which lined it and some trash that other “explorers” had tossed inside. Parts of a wall connected the top to the hillside. Numerous animal holes were visible between the stones. After taking a few more pictures, I took the easy way out by sneaking through the yard of a house above it and returned to the car and Ann Marie. She told me that 2 people had stopped to inquire if she needed any help. Nice people in this area!

    We then returned to Hollidaysburg where we checked into a “low priced” motel. We showered and got dressed for the lecture.

    Held in a lecture room in the Railroaders Memorial Museum, Byron kept us enthralled for about an hour and a half. He told about the various iron furnaces situated around Blair County and showed us pictures, both old and present day. He explained some things about how the iron ore was mined and also about some of the limestone quarries in the county. A little bit about the Portage Railroad and the canals was presented also. A little over 50 people were in attendance.

    Leaving the building after the talk we were presented with a wide rainbow that stretched across the sky. The sun was just setting and that added even more color to the view. Driving back to Hollidaysburg, we watched the sky turn orange. The mountains above Altoona showed all the various hills and valleys, all dark, underneath a spectacular reddish orange sky. There was no place to pull over and take a picture, but there is no doubt, it will always be in our memories.

    The next morning, I was up at dawn and went out to find a couple geocaches before I returned with coffee. We returned to Altoona for breakfast at a great diner called Tom and Joes. Opened originally in 1933 it reflects the way diners used to be. The tables and chairs are vintage styled, a counter is available and the food was both flavorful and plenty. Best breakfast I’ve had in a long time!

    We walked down to the RR tracks and watched the east-bound Amtrak train pull into the station. We found another geocache and then headed up towards the Horseshoe Curve. We did another cache there and then went under the tracks, past the coke ovens located in the ghost town of Glen White and then to Gallitzin where we attempted again to find the cache we couldn’t find the day before. NO LUCK! I’d like to think it is gone, how could we have missed it, THREE TIMES?

    We did one more cache in the town and then got onto rt.22 and headed west towards home. We had only been here for two days but we kept saying that it felt as if we’d been on the road for a week. We managed to squeeze a lot into this short little trip; I’d have to say it was another complete success!

A Spur of the Moment Vacation

 It was Wednesday night and I was debating about taking a ride to Hollidaysburg the next day. There was a talk being held at the Blair County Genealogical Society (BCGS) about, of all things, iron furnaces! The more I thought about it, the more I wanted to go. The only problem was that Hollidaysburg, the county seat of Blair County, was about two hours away, which would mean a long drive in the dark to get home. I don’t mind leaving on a trip in the dark, but returning home is another thing completely.

    I talked with Ann Marie and we decided to get a room for the night and turn the trip into a small vacation. A few minutes later and there was a room waiting for us for the next day.

    Thursday morning had me loading the car as the sun neared the horizon. Everything was orange, the sky, the clouds and the trees. I debated digging the camera out of its bag but instead just stood for a minute or two and enjoyed the view, then got in the car and started my trip.

    I arrived early at Ann Marie’s but she was ready and waiting. As is always the case, our first stop was for coffee followed by some breakfast. After some eggs, bacon and toast and a very unsuccessful attempt at solving the crossword puzzle on the placemat, we continued with the journey.

    The trees looked great in the early morning light; fall was definitely well on its way. Bits of fog still clung in the valleys and the treetops making the views spectacular no matter which way we turned. A couple stops were made for geocaches and possible train sightings but even with these, we were in Hollidaysburg by ten. We stopped first at the local library. They were holding their annual book sale and we always try to support the libraries we visit. We both came away with a couple books.

    After that, we drove out of town to the cliffs overlooking the city. Known as Chimney Rocks, they provide a nice view of the town and the surrounding countryside. A small, steep hike is required to get to the top of the ledges. We found another geocache while we were there but even more importantly, we visited an iron furnace which was built into the hillside below the cliffs.

    I couldn’t find much about this furnace other than a couple brief mentions of it on-line. I did find some old currency that was being sold on E-Bay which references it and I also found a mention of it in a book dated 1859. This book says that the furnace was near the train station, the furnace we visited was about a mile away and up the hillside. This furnace is interesting in the fact that it has a concave front, only one opening and is nowhere near any water. Is it the same furnace? I don’t know!

    Later that evening, at the BCGS we met Byron Smail who was giving the talk. His book is called “The Iron Furnaces of the Cove! Williamsburg, Martinsburg, Roaring Springs, McKee”. The book covers the various furnaces that had been built in the “Cove”.

    I had never heard of the Cove before. I always thought of a cove as a small harbor or indentation in a body of water. Looking the word up in the dictionary I found out that it also means; “A deep recess or small valley in the side of a mountain or a level area sheltered by hills or mountains”.

    It was a nearly standing room only crowd. What a nice group of people. Byron gave an excellent talk, showing pictures of the furnaces and places he was talking about. He explained how these furnaces worked and the differences between charcoal and coke fueled furnaces. He had some examples of slag and iron “rock” to show also. The man knows what he was talking about! I picked up a few books from the society’s bookshop while we were there. Ann Marie and I were glad we came. We were also glad that we didn’t have to drive back in the dark!

    We woke up to rain but that didn’t stop me from finding another geocache about a ¼ mile from the motel. I then got coffee for the two of us and returned back to the room where I promptly spilled all of AMB’s coffee on the table. My mutterings and curses were probably what woke her up!

    We drove into Altoona passing the Allegheny Iron Furnace, (built in 1836) about a mile and a half from where we stayed. Then we cruised some of the alleys and back roads of Altoona looking for trains and the Boyer Candy Company. They make Clark Bars and Mallow Cups there. I was hoping to get a tour but that was no longer being offered. We made do by visiting the retail store and stocking up on some candy.

    Leaving Altoona, we stopped at the small town of Gallitzin. The public library sits right beside the portals of the tunnels leading from The Horseshoe Curve. No trains passed by while we were there. In the library I saw a book set up on a display stand, written by a friend and fellow astronomer Ken Kobis. Cool!

    The next stop was in Johnstown where we stopped at another library. The Cambria County Library has a bookstore in it and while AMB browsed the shelves, I went up to the third floor to visit the Pennsylvania Room. I looked at a couple of old books about iron furnaces while I was there. On our way out of town we stopped at a small restaurant and had an excellent chicken meal for lunch. We are often surprised at the good experiences we have when we “try” a place that we just happened upon.

    We were back at our homes by mid-afternoon, both of us pleased at how well the trip went. We got some great fall leaf viewing, learnt some new facts about iron furnaces along with seeing a couple, visited a few libraries, picked up some more books, got a few more geocaches and had a whole lot of fun doing it. Not bad for a spur of the moment decision.