Searching for Stones in the North

 Cautiously I entered what appeared to be a large bowl, the dirt was layered with different colors and hues. The surface looked hard but it crumbled as I ran my finger across it. I could easily stamp steps into it should I need to.

    An abandoned cement block building sat near the entrance with a large high tension tower sitting behind. Trash and barrels sat around the building with a half open garage door at its far side. I’d come back to that later.

    The bowl was large, maybe 40 or 50 feet across. It looked as if it had been formed by the wind or by water. A small opening was on one side of it, the edges rounded by time. Glancing inside I saw a small hole in the roof near the back, the light filtering in illuminating the small space, highlighting the variations in the coloring of the surface.

    I was searching for…something, I wasn’t sure what. I knew it was near-by and I knew I would know it when I saw it. Whatever it was I knew it was important! Suddenly a alarm started ringing and I abruptly left my dreams and returned to reality. It wasn’t an alarm; it was my bladder that was calling. Much as I wanted to go back and find whatever I was looking for, I knew it would be useless, my dream and my sleep had been left behind!

    I knew that the idea of sleep was impossible, the alarm beside my bed was set for about an hour later. I knew I would just toss and turn. There was another trip on my calendar and the excitement of it wouldn’t let sleep slip in! I gave up and made some coffee.

    A few hours later, I met Frank Festa and his buddy Jeff at a local gas station. After a cup of coffee and some light BS we loaded my gear into his car and we headed north on rt.8.

    We were going on an iron furnace tour. Frank and Jeff are also “experienced furnace hunters”. We had already been to the furnaces on our list but it was the idea and the excitement of seeing them again and comparing them to how they looked when we were there last, ½ a year or even 10 years ago, that brought on this trip.

    Our first stop was to the east of Harrisville, on Creek Bottom Rd. We parked the car and dropped over the hillside, looking for the Marion Iron Furnace, or what was left of it.

    Entering the woods I was reminded of a tropical rain forest. The ground and branches we passed under were all wet. It was warm and everything was green. Other than the birds chirping, all was silent except for our footsteps. The logs were covered with moss and skunk cabbage was sprouting near the creek. Ferns were everywhere. Our pant legs were drenched almost immediately. Mosses on the rocks made them blend in with everything else, making walking difficult. Moving up the stream I didn’t see the furnace and I started doubting my memory and then I saw it, a large mound of rocks, green like everything else.

    The furnace sits right in front of a water channel built at the same time as the furnace. The Marion furnace is listed as being built around 1848-1850. It produced iron only until 1862. A short distance upstream from the furnace sits the remains of a dam which fed the channel in front of it. I imagine there was a water wheel here at one time.

    Only one opening remains. The rest of it is just a pile of green stones. Above it was the plane of an old road and downstream from it we found both a couple pieces of iron and LOTS of slag. The slag is a byproduct of the iron making process; it needs removed from the top of the molten iron before the iron can be poured into the molds, called pigs.

    We left the furnace and headed NW towards Mercer crossing beautiful farms interspersed with batches of woods. We passed a weird stone structure on our way so naturally; we stopped to look and photograph. We have no idea what it is or was.

    Further on up the road we came to the first of two similarly named furnaces. Which one is really the Iron City Furnace is unknown but for us, I will call the first, Iron City Furnace North and the second, Iron City Furnace South. The two furnaces lie about two miles apart.

    The first, (ICFN) sits near a golf course. It is rather small and looks as if it was built into a hillside. Was it an iron furnace?  There is only one opening visible and has a rather large opening on top. There are no loose stones lying around and no visible slag in the near-by stream. The stones which make up the outside of furnaces are often taken to build other structures after the furnaces are shut down. The topography of the land often changes also, some of the furnace could still be underground, and the small opening could be the top of a much larger opening. (?)

    There is signage which says the furnace was built in 1838 and a bit downstream is a poorly made, plywood waterwheel hung across the stream. The near-by wooden bridges and rope handrails are showing their age and I chose to walk across the stream rather than chance using the bridges.

    The second furnace, (ICFS) isn’t much more than a large pile of stones. Wild rose bushes and other brush cover it, making it hard to get a complete view of it. Several courses of stone can be seen still standing in places and I know from a previous visit that one of the openings is still there, though protected now by fallen sticks and many heavily thorned branches. By forcing your way though the heavy brush, you can see the chimney opening

    The side furthest from the road, probably where the casting opening was has many stones visible, tumbled against one another. On this side there are many pieces of slag lying around on the ground, something we didn’t notice at the previous furnace

    This caused us to think that the first one (ICFN) was a smaller furnace, possibly used to reheat the iron to further form it into shapes to be used elsewhere. The second furnace (ICFS) seems so much larger and has the debris related to iron furnaces scattered around it. We may never know.

    The bible for old iron furnaces hunters written by Myron Sharp and William Thomas, A Guide to the Old Stone Blast Furnaces in Western Pennsylvania, says that the Iron City Furnace was built in 1846 or possibly 1838 and went out of blast by 1865. The directions in it SEEM to be for the second (ICFS) site.

    Our journey then took us further south, not far from Volant below a beautiful waterfall. The Springfield Furnace was built here around 1837 and produced iron until 1862. A sign posted beside it calls it the Seth and Hill Furnace, noting that it was the first furnace built in Mercer County. The furnace remained in use until 1867. It had a huge 18 foot waterwheel that was powered by the water flowing over the falls. Remnants of the waterway can be seen leading towards the furnace when viewed from above.

    The furnace was partially covered in dirt and was later dug out by owners of the property. A jewelry store used to be located above the furnace, some of the items they sold was jewelry made out of the slag found around the area. A brewery sits here now and some of the paths leading to their outdoor seating are covered with crushed slag. Slag is everywhere you look here! The ruins are included in the brewery’s location, a fire ring sits in the mouth of the furnace and Corn-hole boards sit near-by the tables scattered on the patio around it. The area is more an entertainment venue than a historical site.

    The sound of the water pouring over the falls was with us as soon as we opened the car doors. Being a big fan of old iron furnaces, I would have to say that the falls were my favorite thing about this site. Chances are we (AMB and I) will visit here again; the idea of sipping on a mug of beer and sitting by the falls for an hour or two sounds pretty good!

    The next stop was on the edge of McConnell’s Mill State Park, alongside Slippery Rock Creek. This is where perhaps one of the best preserved iron furnaces in Western Pennsylvania sits. The Wilroy furnace was built in 1854. It is very difficult to get to and perhaps this is one of the reasons it is so well preserved. People upstream have the land posted and on the other side is a highway. The stream is wide and rarely shallow enough to cross by foot. This results in a furnace with no trash around it and no graffiti. Someone has kept up with occasional clearing of near-by trees and shrubs and there aren’t any major trees digging their roots in between the stones.

Taken in April of 2022

    The furnace has 5 tiers of stone with three openings. A small bit of stone has fallen from the top but the majority of it remains. I can only hope it will become available to furnace lovers in the future!

    Ann Marie and I have visited it a few times but on this trip we weren’t able to get near it. We had to view it through the trees from the far side of the stream. What little we could see of it still looked magnificent!

    About fifteen miles further south brought us to the far end of the Zelienople Airport. A nice big sign greeted us as we pulled into in a small parking area. A wide path led us into the woods to a pile of rocks which was all that remains of the Bassenheim Iron Furnace. Though the airport is in Butler County, the furnace sits across the county line in Beaver.

    This furnace, built in 1813 was one of the first iron furnaces in Western Pennsylvania. It produced about 5 tons of iron a week during the ten years (+/-) it was in blast. We slipped down the steep hillside beside it to the creek below hoping to be able to see more of it but thick brush covered anything that might be there. We found a couple pieces of slag in the stream but not much more. Above, only the top of the furnace is visible, just a couple courses of rock and that is rapidly becoming overgrown with foliage. Should you want to force your way to the top, the chimney opening can be seen. This was the least exciting furnace we visited.

    From there we headed back to where my car was parked. The trip was a success, we visited one more furnace than what we had planned, the weather was just right for a trip, and the good companionship made it even better! We were on the road for about eight hours; eight hours well spent!

    There is something I find fascinating about finding these remnants of what used to be a thriving community and business. Everything is gone, the buildings, the houses and the machinery. Unlike the past these sites are quiet. Occasionally there are walls still standing, that used to hold equipment, control the earth’s movement or to diverge water but most often, it is only the stones which made up the furnace that remain, piles of stone, continuously being hidden by nature. 

Viewing the Aurora from Wagman

 Chances are that you have heard numerous reports, seen hundreds of photographs and even listened to and watched news reports about Friday night’s auroras. Well, let me add one more to your pile.

    The sun is currently at what is called solar maximum, the peak of an eleven year cycle. A massive coronal mass ejection from the sun was due to hit the earth causing a huge geomagnetic storm. The particles expelled from the sun interact with the earth’s magnetic fields and causes what is known as Aurora Borealis or the Northern Lights. (In the southern hemisphere, they are called Aurora Australis or the Southern Lights.) Solar observers gave notice a few days ago and rapidly the word spread. Astronomers passed the word via the internet and before long TV newscasters were mentioned it along with how and where the aurora could be viewed.

    The convergence of any astronomical event and bad weather is a well known coincidence. In astronomy clubs a common joke is that by simply buying a new telescope or eye piece you will be bringing bad weather into your hometown. Astronomical events such as conjunctions, occultations and eclipses can bring on this phenomenon also. It was because of this that I reigned in my enthusiasm a bit!

    The Amateur Astronomers Association of Pittsburgh (AAAP) had its monthly meeting on Friday night. Attendance was in person or via Zoom, I chose to attend by way of my computer. Sitting beside the window my attention drifted between the meeting, the NOAA Aurora Prediction page (it was looking good!) and the sky outside. I left when the meeting was half over; the chance that something might occur in the sky overrode the meeting’s presentation.

    The clouds in the sky were very dramatic looking, tinged with oranges and reds. I was hoping that the sky would clear as I drove towards the club’s observatory. As the sky darkened there seemed to be a brighter patch in the north and while I didn’t think it was an aurora, the thought did cross my mind more than once. My hopes were rising.

    Pulling up to the gate at the Wagman Observatory, I found that the small parking lot was filled and cars were parked alongside the narrow road. Someone had parked directly in front of the gates and I had to search them out in able to open them.  There were about 20 or more people scattered across the field. Once the gate was opened cars flooded into the field, coming and going for the rest of the evening.

    At 9 o’clock the sky was still rather bright. The crescent moon in the west was all that was visible. Slowly more and more stars appeared. A large cloud was situated in the north but still everyone there was hopeful and excited. People stood alone and in groups, all facing the north. A TV camera man had his camera set up, patiently waiting along with the rest of us. Cameras were set up on tripods and nearly everyone had phones in their hands, quietly talking among themselves. During the evening, at least 10 members of the AAAP arrived along with a crowd possibly numbering 100 or more.

    The first noticeable burst came right after 10. I heard someone say “I can see it!” and then, there was no doubt that we were seeing an aurora. A big one!

    Batches of colors, mainly red and pink (to my aging eyes) appeared in the sky. Fainter colors appeared, looking more like rays or curtains. They would appear and then fade off only to reappear elsewhere, different shapes and colors. Grays and whites along with yellows seemed more prominent behind the observatory while the blobs or larger batches of colors seemed to be mostly off to the left, in the NW. The aurora grew in size, eventually extending past the zenith and into the southern skies. It was spectacular!

    About 15 minutes into this show, the International Space Station made a pass almost directly overhead. Its pass made it appear to slice through both the Big Dipper and the aurora. We couldn’t have asked for more. Everyone in the field was excited.

    It was fun being in a group while experiencing this event. The feelings of happiness and wonder were contagious. I couldn’t help but compare it to last month’s total solar eclipse, both events showcased the wonders of our world and the beauty of the skies, presents that were given to us to enjoy.

    The show continued for about an hour before fading down after 11. The TV man provided footage for the Channel 2 news.  Thousands of pictures were taken. The glow of smart phones was seen everywhere I looked. The pictures taken by them were dramatic, providing more colors than what we saw by eye. I was envious; my camera exposures were in the 20-25 second range while theirs were just a second or two, but I still enjoyed the process of photographing the aurora. It’s interesting how different cameras and phones produced different colors in their pictures.

    The club members started packing up to go a bit after 11 and I was getting tired also. Before we could leave we had to get all of the cars out of the field. Thankfully there were only 6 or 7 left. We told the owners that they could stay on the hilltop; they just couldn’t leave their cars there. There was one driver we couldn’t locate, after a brief search, I finally found him over the hillside below the observatory.

    While locking the gate, a County Policeman arrived with lights flashing. There were cars lining both sides of the road, some had actually parked on the road rather than off to the side. I can only imagine that some tickets were issued after I left. People were still arriving as I drove away.

   The last time I had seen an aurora, the only other time I might add, was at the same place, Wagman Observatory, on June 13^th, 1991.

     I drove home through a thick fog and when I got home, nothing was visible in the sky at all. I was extremely happy to have taken the drive up to the observatory!

    During the event, I couldn’t help but think; last month we had a total solar eclipse and this month we were treated to a fantastic aurora. What in the world will June bring us?

Some More Pennsylvania Treasures

 Ann Marie and I had the opportunity to drive cross state again this past weekend. My Grandson Nico’s 2^nd birthday was on Saturday and we didn’t want to miss the party! As is always the case, our journey wasn’t a “straight to and back” trip. We took a few stops along the way to see some of the scenery, history and wonders that our state has to offer.

    The moon was just rising in the eastern sky as I loaded my gear into the back of the car. Checking my list, I was pretty sure that there was nothing left behind. Being early in the morning, the work day traffic was rather light as I made my way over to Ann Marie’s house. It wasn’t much longer and we were on rt.22 with the sun still hidden by the hills. We were on the road about 20 minutes before we saw it off to our left. The clouds had moved in and all we saw of the sunrise was a bright spot, but we still called it sunrise. Our “day” had started.

    We stopped first in Gallitzin, a community on top of the hills west of Altoona, a few miles up from the Horseshoe Curve. The stop was above the RR tracks which lead into one of the tunnels. Though trains were always in mind, it was a small metal container hidden in the woods which brought us here, yup, a geocache.

    Our journey took us to a dirt road that entered a state game lands. The road wasn’t bad but we had to be careful where we were going, the recent rains left lots of ruts in the road. We pulled over in a handy spot and went and scoured the woods. We had a real good idea of where it was, but there was nothing there, at least as far as we could see. That’s part of the game of geocaching; you don’t always find what you’re looking for, even when it’s there!

    Further down the road, we passed over 20 coke ovens, lined one after another. I know there are more in this area having seen them before. The fronts were broken, giving us views of their insides, though the spring brush and weeds were rapidly hiding them. I am only guessing that these may have been used to help fuel the iron furnace in Altoona. There are also many coke ovens situated behind the Horseshoe Curve in a place that used to be called Glen White, just a few miles away.

    A little further down from Gallitzin, we found a cache hidden in the ruins of an old stone house. Located almost beside rt.22, it escaped destruction by mere yards as the road was being built. It's something cool, hidden in the woods that very few people know about. Thousands of people pass beside it daily without ever knowing it’s there.

Etna Furnace workers cabins

Present day view of the furnace

Before support structures were added, unknown date

The tuyere opening

The Bank Barn

    Going through Blair County, we were only a mile or two away from the Etna Furnace so we drove down a side road to where the Frankstown Branch of the Juniata River runs. The Pennsylvania Canal used to be located here. We passed the Iron Master’s house, and three log cabins which housed the furnace workers families. There are other buildings in this area all used during the time the furnace was in operation along with a cemetery. There are lots of beautiful stone walls behind the furnace and in the surrounding woods. The furnace was falling apart and has had some rather poor looking repairs done to it to help keep it standing. An ugly looking wooden top sits on it and steel tie rods connect large I-beams in the front and back. It isn’t very photogenic.

The Inside Scoop Ice Cream Store

    A stop was made in Coopersburg at the Inside Scoop Ice Cream Shop. Going inside the shop is like stepping into a Happy Days episode. After finding a near-by cache we got a couple milk shakes to fuel us for the rest of the trip.

    Less than a mile away from the ice cream store was a book shop. Of course we had to visit it! It was actually the book store that brought us to Coopersburg. Medina Books and Coffee is owned and run by Joselin, a wonderful woman who was happy to discuss books and life with us. Located on the first floor of a building offering a few other services, it was homey and filled with nice decorations, not to mention, lots of new and used books!

The Rhoads Opera House Building

After the fire (1908)

    Saturday morning we took a ride to Boyertown, where my father had grown up. It was a fairly short visit, we browsed through The Book Nook, a book store on the bottom floor of the building that has a bit of family history. Back in 1908, on January 13^th, a fire started in the Rhoads Opera House. A show was being given on the 2^nd floor and once the fire started, a jam against the inward opening doors caused many to die. 170 people died that night, including my grandfather and aunt.

    After visiting the book store we strolled around for a bit and then had lunch at a nice little coffee shop. The Brakeman’s Café was crowded since it was nearing the lunch hour. We got a couple BIG mugs of good coffee and a tasty lunch while we were there.

Boyertown Train Station

Colebrookdale Railroad engine and carts

    Across the street from the café were the tracks and ticket booths of the Colebrookdale Railroad. My sister used to live in one of the houses facing this area. Back in those days there was nothing across the street except a few railroad tracks. Now, they have changed it into a nice Edwardian style park with brick sidewalks, gardens and statues. The railroad offers “elegant” rides in beautifully restored carriages. They also offer self propelled carts that you can rent to ride a mile or two down the line.

    Sunday morning after Church we headed back towards home. We took a western route through the “back roads” until we were a bit below Pottstown. There we stopped at the Hopewell Furnace National Historic Site. The day was rainy and since we hadn’t brought any rain gear, we stayed under roofs as much as possible. There was a lot we missed because of the weather, looks like we will have to return again, on a dry day.

View from Visitors Center

The furnace is behind the white Casting House

The functioning water wheel

The furnace from inside the Casting House

The furnace in 1910

    The Hopewell Furnace was built in 1771 and was one of many furnaces built in this area. It worked for 112 years before finally shutting down in 1883. The condition of the furnace deteriorated until the late 30’s when the C.C.C. rebuilt it. The rebuilding continued over the decades, passing from one organization to another. Since the furnace had constantly changed over the years, it was decided to rebuild it to match when it was in its most prosperous time, the 1820-40’s.

    Another near-by furnace is the Cornwall Furnace. This is also a complete “whole” complex, with the furnace and buildings still standing from over 100 years ago. Both this and Hopewell Furnace (and the Etna furnace) give us an idea of what the facilities in the early iron industry looked like. All that is missing is the the people, the noise, the smoke and the smells.

    The rain continued until we reached Harrisburg where we stopped at the Red Rabbit Drive-in, situated not far from Duncannon, where the Appalachian Trail crosses the Susquehanna River. The stop was well worth it! We had fresh made hamburgers, fries and milk shakes, made to order. Making the experience even better, the man who waited our car, Dan, was from New Kensington. What a small world!

    Other than a couple stops for drinks, the rest of the trip was continuous. We were home well before sunset and we had left the rain behind in Harrisburg. We had beautiful skies with occasional dark clouds which brought out the colors, making the Pennsylvania landscapes even more dramatic. Our state has so many interesting sites to see, it’s filled with little treasures, all you have to do is look for them.

    We enjoyed the road trip, especially the visit with family, but one of the nicest things about any trip, is returning back to home to our familiar beds!